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The sensitive militancy and traditional tailoring vs unorthodox hyper-layering of Giuliano Fujiwara FW10 are carried through the collection with such effortless precision, the juxtapositions only go that much further to demonstrate designer Masataka Matsumura’s seamlessly adept ability to fuze opposing elements of culture and design.

Chunky knits; a jaunty great coat; the oversized collar on a slim-line pea coat; sharply cut, cropped leather motorcycle jackets featuring elegantly wilted, oversized lapels; and a shearling bomber that gets its sense of command from angular panels reminiscent of modern architectural design, all made a powerful visual impact paired with slim jeans, pegged pants, loose trousers and a number of warrior-inspired skirts.

As usual, the footwear is a stand out—from oversized, lace-up combat boots to high-tops modernized for an apocalyptic super future with aggressive, quilted ribbing.  Fingerless leather gloves with a menacing sheen; slim leather headbands; sunglasses that share DNA with a WWI fighter ace’s goggles and chokers crafted from gold and silver made their mark among accessories. The intermittent use of color heightened the ominous presence of the collection’s dominant palette of black, brown and grey.

Images via Giuliano Fujiwara